Depending where you live, it can be really hard to find ethonal free gas. As an added bonus, carburators hate having ethonal sit in them. They’ll develop a varnish. Carbs also don’t like sitting partially dry and getting all the fuel out of them is a massive pain. Yay lawn equipment.
Both. Ethonal is still corrosive and the majority of fuel systems these days are compatible with E15. That said, check your owners manual.
Or random application availability and/or ease of use.
Two cases in point:
Things are certainly better now than they have been in the past, but if you’re somewhat time limited (eg your computer is more of a tool than a thing to spend time tweaking) Linux can still be a bit offputting - especially if some of the core applications you use aren’t officially supported.
It’s pretty annoying in 10 too. I had a big scratch folder on my desktop and one day it decided to start syncing with one drive after a restart and one of those setup/welcome like screens.
Fellow 2.4 person whose also chiming in on the thread in the lemmy.world instance of this community. My 2.4 doesn’t do this, but it could potentially be klipper related (pressure advance, input shaping, etc).
Duck Duck Go is repackaged Bing and Yahoo for the most part. - Said as a duck duck go user
At some point I should really try out one of the paid search options…
Really? Pixels have had that function for a while now. I always assumed it was stock.
Your maximum nozzle diameter depends on your extruder. Most printers run one of a few fairly standard designs. It wouldn’t surprise me if there are larger diameter nozzles made for your extruder, but they’re not marketed for your printer.
Most fans have a back draft flap built into them, do it shouldn’t be an issue.
Welcome to the club! It sounds like you know what to search for, so you’re off to a good start. If you haven’t found it already, Ellis’ print tuning guide will give you a good foundation for tuning your printer well.
It looks like you have an Ultrabase bed, or at least something very similar. I had one on my i3 clone and it served me well for a number of years.
As you discovered, prints will stick to it well if it’s clean. Dish soap and IPA (use the 90+% stuff) do a decent job of cleaning it. Windex also works well for keeping it fresh. Prints will easily release after the bed is cool, especially after the bed gets some miles on it. I’m betting the prior owner either had trouble with their first layer sticking or releasing - glue sticks are used by some for both scenarios. Proper first layer squish, a slow first layer, a clean bed, and a cool bed are all it really takes unless you’re printing something like ABS/ASA and then your first step should probably be an enclosure, not an adhesion promoter.
Haha, I was trying to post a summary vs rehashing one of the million recipes you can find on the Internet. Let me try restating them a bit more explicitly:
Anything you need to do beyond Rufus or the like for installation? How did activation, auto updates, etc work?
It’s also CPU generation, unless that’s changed since the last time I looked.
It looks like I’m the odd person out: I cut my potatoes before boiling and use a KitchenAid stand mixer for the mashing. My mashed taters are usually soft/fluffy/yummy.
For mashing, less is more. If you know this going in, there’s no harm to using a stand mixer.
Put your desire amount of butter in the bottom of the stand mixer. Peel, slice and add to cold water. Salt if desired. Boil until they cleve cleanly with a fork. Drain, dump on butter, let rest a few minutes to soften the butter. Mix and add milk as necessary. A little minced rosemary with the potatoes when they go into the stand mixer is 👌
I am not familiar with your model of printer, but from looking at Google it looks like it’s a typical FDM printer with a spring steel bed. These beds follow this pattern
So your heater is just fine and you gouged the magnet. I would remove any high points from the magnetic layer, so it doesn’t push the spring steel up in that area, and carry on.
I’m currently running polymaker ASA. It’s not cheap, but it’s not that out of the ordinary price wise for ASA. I am somewhat tempted to give Atomic Filament’s ABS a go since they were one of my go to PETG companies and their filament was super consistent. Polymaker’s ASA has been fairly solid other than the fairly different printing needs of different colors, which is something I haven’t experienced on other types of filament before. Maybe that’s normal for ASA though.
I’m running a bedfan/filter combo called “the filter”. It’s drastically reduced chamber heating times for me. No idea if theres a version out there for your printer, but there might be given it’s popularity and similarities with the Voron trident.
100 bed is pretty reasonable. 260/270 seems pretty toasty, but if it works it works.
Do you have a bedslinger, CoreXY, or something else? Bedfans made a world of difference for chamber heating rate. There are a number of bedfan and active carbon combinations that I’ve found to be fairly effective at chamber heating and reducing odors.
Are you recently enclosed? If yes, beware that everything will expand enough to throw off your first layer if you don’t accommodate for it.
I’ve only run ASA so far, but even sticking with the same brand I’ve noticed that different colors have very different temperature and extrusion multiplier needs. Prior to ASA I stuck with PETG and I used the same settings for any color but white.
Volt owner checking in. I do one pedal driving 95% of the time and you’re right. My brake disks are in rough shape because they see so little use.
What industry/retion do you work in? I’m over the Midwest and was in the office today in jeans and a graphic tee.
My electric chainsaws and weed whacker always start. Eventually our lawn tractor will kick the bucket and I’ll either convert it to electric or buy one.