• 1 Post
  • 205 Comments
Joined 11 months ago
cake
Cake day: August 15th, 2023

help-circle





  • It was on old 3.5" drives a long time ago, before anything fancy was ever built into the drives. It was in a seriously rough working environment anyway, so we saw a lot of failed drives. If strange experiments didn’t work to get the things working, mainly for lulz, the next option was to see if a sledge hammer would fix the problem. Funny thing… that never worked either.




  • Maybe? Bad cables are a thing, so it’s something to be aware of. USB latency, in rare cases, can cause problems but not so much in this application.

    I haven’t looked into the exact ways that bad sectors are detected, but it probably hasn’t changed too much over the years. Needless to say, info here is just approximate.

    However, marking a sector as bad generally happens at the firmware/controller level. I am guessing that a write is quickly followed by a verification, and if the controller sees an error, it will just remap that particular sector. If HDDs use any kind of parity checks per sector, a write test may not be needed.

    Tools like CHKDSK likely step through each sector manually and perform read tests, or just tells the controller to perform whatever test it does on each sector.

    OS level interference or bad cables are unlikely to cause the controller to mark a sector as bad, is my point. Now, if bad data gets written to disk because of a bad cable, the controller shouldn’t care. It just sees data and writes data. (That would be rare as well, but possible.)

    What you will see is latency. USB can be magnitudes slower than SATA. Buffers and wait states are causing this because of the speed differences. This latency isn’t going to cause physical problems though.

    My overall point is that there are several independent software and firmware layers that need to be completely broken for a SATA drive to erroneously mark a sector as bad due to a slow conversion cable. Sure, it could happen and that is why we have software that can attempt to repair bad sectors.


  • Yeah, I got several replacement bits from them for no charge. It’s also super easy to get past their level 1 support if you present an issue clearly and with evidence. (… as opposed to being forced to perform every step in a level 1 playbook. (DiD yOu tUrN iT oN aNd oFf agAiN?))

    I have been following the power loss recovery issues on GitHub for a while. They finally came out and said, on GitHub, that they can’t implement. It was super shady of them to just quietly delete that feature from their product page.

    However: If your first layer is tuned correctly and you lose power long enough for the bed to cool down, the print (depending on the material) will likely pop off the bed anyway so power loss recovery is moot. IMHO, if the print is super important it should be supervised and attached to a beefy UPS.


  • Random rambling and opinions ahead.

    It’s $10k if anyone was wondering but as far as commercial products go, that is still peanuts.

    Prusa acquired the companies responsible for this product a couple years ago(?) and I believe it is a good thing that this product was in limbo for a bit. (It likely means a more refined product, but just speculation.)

    Unfortunately, Prusa is not beyond beta testing with their customers or making false promises about future product features. (re: Prusa Mini, as a good example.) I only say this because if you were planning to buy this for production immediately, I would personally wait a few months.

    That previous paragraph sounds bad, and it is, but their support channels are amazing and that is where most of the product cost is. My personal experience with Prusa support has always been excellent.

    (I was a Mini early adopter, so I expected some rough edges. Power loss recovery functionality was quietly buried over the last couple of years as their original board+psu wasn’t up to the task.)





  • I was a huge Signal advocate at one time and would try to get everyone to install it and use it. Man, woman or child, I didn’t care who it was. I was worse than a crypto-bro trying to jam BTC down everyone’s throat.

    I was chatting with a group of ladies at work and got a few of them to install it. When they did, Signal pushed notifications of them connecting to my wife’s phone.

    Needless to say, I got questioned fairly intensely about why there were other girls connecting with me on Signal.

    I wasn’t very keen on Signal after that.


  • would just get frustrated and throw things.

    Yeah. Most conservatives I know have short tempers and they get extremely carried away when they are in groups. I mean, it doesn’t matter what they are getting mad at, just as long as everyone is getting pissed off at the same time and about someone else or some other ideology. The key point is they believe they are victims of “the system” or “libruls” and not their own bad choices.

    It’s very similar to how Putin is constantly crying about how Russia is a victim of NATO aggression, actually.

    Just tell a person that their way of life is being attacked and that you have all the solutions.(Simplified Hermann Goering quote. Allegedly.)



  • It is absolutely just more cost effective, safer and better piece of mind to just replace the breaker. I’ll take that route 99.99% of the time.

    If you feel adventurous, there are a couple of ways to test that breaker without proper test equipment. The risks could be zero OR you blow your face off and burn your house down.

    Find an open outlet at tap live to ground. This will produce some natural and organic indoor fireworks, but it should trip the breaker. If it doesn’t, there is a small risk of welding the wires together and creating a very strange short condition, turning that entire circuit into a new heat strip. (Free money!)

    Find two 1800W space heaters and together, on the same circuit, they should trip the breaker as well. (Breakers should be rated to at least 1800W.) This is problematic as well and I’ll explain. There is something magical about space heaters as I have seen 2 or 3 run off of the same circuit before. I suspect that if a breaker is slowly warmed up due to heavy load it will change its characteristics, causing it to only trip at higher loads. (Absolute speculation on my part!) By default, I would replace the breaker if I saw that kind of load. Extended, and higer heat cycles will eventually damage the breaker.