Unrelated to your concerns, I would suggest a screen or plumbing vent cap to keep rodents from dropping in through the vent. Most don’t realize that this is a thing that happens.

Loose-fill insulation is not great in vertical applications. If you can afford it get spray foam. Otherwise you’re probably best off with basic fiberglass batts.

Don’t sweat the RAM. The M series really are different than the intel forebears. You’ll be fine with all of your considered options.

The cheap-as-dirt meross does, it has an open/closed sensor.

Most openers have a dumb switch interface. A simple close-to-change circuit - I’ve never had one that wasn’t that way. If MyQ is so complicated (serial interface!?) then it needs to go anyway.

lol, just get a dumb opener and a shelly relay or use a meross unit. Super cheap and flawless local control that is cloud-connected if you want it.

K U is awesome on the free trial but I wouldn’t (didn’t) renew for money.

I wrote it to automate my workflow - I’m in sales. I enter site details at the customer location and my app crunches the numbers to pre-fill all relevant documents (contract, financing, etc) in PDF form. I also use it as a presentation device to explain service and product details/specs using pictures, videos and PDF documents.

No more paper, no more fiddling around with calculator and rate-cards. I do a little data entry and basically my job is done.

Oops, I’m sorry - I should have mentioned that it’s not on the App Store. It is chock full of company proprietary documents, photos and sales formulae. I wrote it just for myself.

The one I wrote myself to automate tasks at work. It has saved me hundreds of hours of tedium and makes my job so much easier. It only cost me a few weeks of learning (I am not a developer, just a tinkerer) to get it done. It lives happily on my phone and iPad and I use it every day.

The HR department at your company is the company’s advocate they are not your advocate.

If you haven’t already go get Reamde by Neil Stephenson. Slightly similar but less campy vibe - also enjoyed.

Streaming videos on my phone using speaker for audio while at the restaurant eating lunch. I figured for sure, everyone would want to get in on that awesome stand-up comedy action or zany talk show that I enjoy with my meal. It turns out that (gasp!) some people even think it’s rude…LOL.

Double Feature: Ender’s Game (2013) and Starship Troopers (1997) - then we serve them a sumptuous shellfish tower to discuss their surrender over dinner.

You are wise to be concerned but I think you will not design an “enclosure” that will prevent further damage if it is inside a wood frame house. There is a house near me that burned down because of a single power brick for a tool in the garage.

Your better approach would be to make it so that power delivery is monitored and regulated automatically. That or manually just unplug after charging.

Thermal runaway happens on over-discharge or overcharge of the battery pack. Each pack has smart circuits to regulate this but they are designed at scale with a squinty eye at overall product cost…cheapest circuit available gets used even by well-known manufacturers.

Place power draw monitoring on the delivery circuit and when the draw lowers to maintenance level (batteries have recharged) have the power delivery automatically cut off. This can all be automated with freely available smart home products. You can even get some temperature sensors to monitor for overheat conditions during charging.

I wouldn’t be overly concerned that the concrete cracked…it does that sometimes. Be concerned if you have heaving/unevenness in the support of your home. As others have said - contact a professional. I would suggest an engineer, not a foundation repair salesman…you get where I’m going with that - the foundation company will always suggest large-scale repairs. An engineer that has no financial dog in the fight will cost a bit but will give an hones opinion.

What you’re looking for is a Shelly relay. I have some wired into switches for various things. For your situation you would put the relay in “detached” mode so the physical switch is not actually switching power but the relay can use the switching action to trigger the automation to the bulbs. The bulbs are always supplied power but the switch can control their state.